Growing from Seed Part 2

It won’t be long and you’ll be needing to transplant your nursery plant.  You’ll know when the plant has roots showing and the bottom juvenile leaves are popping, it's time.  Gather the supplies you’ll need.  You don’t want to be left scrambling while your plants suffer from the need for more room and a stable footing.  A bit like us.


gather your supplies

You’ll need six inch pots to transplant into.  If you go to a bigger pot too soon the plant will stretch out and the buds will space apart making it spindly.  These extra transplant steps are well worth it if you want nice dense buds and a lower growing plant.  Label the pot with the strain you’re transplanting into.  We use painter’s masking tape and a sharpie.  Clean the surface free of soil before you try the stick on the label.  Less frustrating.


it's always a good idea to label your pots

A good pro mix potting soil works well as a growing medium.  Dump the dirt you’ll need in a big mixing tub.  Stir in water pre-mixed with 20-20-20 fertilizer.  Look for a good full spectrum micro nutrient fertilizer and follow the mixing directions for indoor growing young transplants.  Moisten the dirt.  If your using a full bale, that’s 3.8 cubic feet of dirt, you’ll need 50 litres of water to get a proper wetting.  Leave the dirt to sit overnight before planting.  This allows the dirt fibres to fully absorb all the water so the dirt never get runny.  Use a grub hoe to fluff the dirt up before using it.

  • Fill the pot with about four inches of dirt. 
  • Shake and tap it until the dirt is level in the bottom. 
  • Make an indentation in the middle. 

  • Take the plants out from the four inch pot by inverting them. 
  • Support and protect the stem by placing your index finger and middle finger on either side of the stem straddling the lip of the pot. 
  • Turn the plant over.  The ball of your hand will take the weight of the plant while it is upside down. 

  • Remove the pot, set it down and place that hand on the bottom of the plant. 
  • Support it while you gently turn it back upright.
  • Now gently lower the root ball into centre of the pot.  Keep the tops of the soil level so as not to bury the stem.  Take some more dirt and fill up the spaces on the sides.  Tap it down lightly and nudge the root ball into good contact with the additional soil.   

As with all stages of indoor growing, the right lighting is important.  This is the plant’s first foray into the veg or leafy growth stage.  If you use digital 1000 watt ballasts, turn them down to 50%.  Suspend the metal halide bulb 2 to 3 feet above the top of the tallest plant.  If you do not have the digital ballast capability, use a lower watt, say 600, bulb.  Set the lights on a timer for 18 hours on, 6 hours off.  You’ll want to spread the plants out a bit and make sure they are all getting good light.

Have your lights adjustable to height and make the necessary corrections as the plants get taller.  Once the light source is more than 2 feet away there’s considerable loss of lumens.  Too close, however, and you risk burning them.

For maximum usage of reflection in the room, cover on the walls where your growing with white reflective tarp, it’s been called farmer’s wrap, black on one side and white on the other.  Works great and it’s super durable and scrubbable.  

Some general tending notes.  More is less when it comes to using fertilizer.  You can safely cut the recommended dose in half but never the other way around.  Throughout the veg stage you can safely fertilize with 20-20-20 every 10 - 14 days.  

Next up:  Rocking out the budding stage.

Pro tips:

Pre-moisten the dirt and allow to sit overnight before using.  This is important for proper water and nutrient absorption.

Keep the tops of the soil level when transplanting.  Do not bury the stem.  It will smother the roots.  The only time you can bury the plant is when it’s a seedling.  

For maximum leafy growth try to keep the lights as near to 2 feet away from the plant but not more than.